Friday, September 22, 2006

First Update--Nuggets of Life in Liberia


Mary Tom and I made it to Africa! And it’s been quite
an adventure already. I already feel like I’ve been
here forever, even though things are still so new. We
spent a day in Monrovia, and then headed out to
Cuttington, 120 miles away. We are all still figuring
out just what we will be doing here. I’ve been
spending time touring the school farm, and am spending
this week shadowing the supervisor in each of the
different areas. They have a rubber plantation, pigs,
chickens, a fish pond in development, vegetables, and
rice paddies. I met with the Dean of the College of
Agriculture and Rural Development yesterday. It was
surreal to look over course schedules and descriptions
in his office, where the power was out, and where the
walls were still stained from the damage sustained
during the war. He said my arrival was timely and he
hoped my presence would encourage women to join the
College of Agriculture, which is currently dominated
by men. I have a month to work on the farm before
classes start. I still don’t know what I will be
doing except that I will be working with the students,
and with the management team on the farm. The farm
management team has welcomed me very warmly.

Cuttington’s campus is 1,500 acres, and could be
considered the most prestigious college in Liberia.
Charles Taylor (the notorious war lord) and his troops
occupied the campus for part of the war. They
destroyed all the infrastructure, consumed all of the
agricultural products and animals, burned all the
documents and books, and destroyed the buildings by
tearing off the roofs. Not to mention the torture,
maiming, and murder they committed all over the
country, ultimately resulting in the deaths of 250,000
people. The UN is still a very big presence here, and
there are signs of a recent terrible conflict
everywhere. Power is returning to parts of the
capitol city for the first time in 15 years. Grant
funding has provided for basic rebuilding of many
campus structures at Cuttington, though running water
is still hope for the future. I was surprised to see
almost no guns in the streets, even the national
police are not allowed to be armed. Progress is being
made, very slowly, but a lasting peace will require
major economic stimulation. Liberia is the poorest
country in the world right now. Cuttington is located
in a very rural and impoverished area, and is well
placed to make a difference here, as well as educating
leaders for a new Liberia.

So some of our adventures have included: Taking a taxi
to Gbarnga (pronounced “Bonga”) where the taxies never
drive off until there are at least 7 people in them.
Shopping in Monrovia where there are absolutely no
road signs or traffic signals, and people absolutely
everywhere. Being told not to cross the road just in
time to see the President’s motorcade speeding past.
Hiring a car to take us from the airport who got two
flat tires in the dark and pouring rain. Arriving to
stay at the Lutheran compound (a veritable fortress)
in Monrovia after dark and unexpected. Being taken
under the wing of a young man who had spent the war
fleeing from refugee camp to refugee camp, he escorted
us from Monrovia to Cuttington just to be sure nothing
happened to us. Trying to learn “Liberian English”.
Learning how to snap fingers with someone who is
shaking your hand (a custom). Eating the delicious
Liberian cuisine. Our several hour walk around
Cuttington’s campus which lead us through several
traditional rural villages. Having a face off with
the snails in our kitchen whom we will be eating in
the next few days (we were feeling much more brave at
the idea of snails, now that we have purchased them,
they are a bit scary). Trying to figure out how to be
a servant when you are being called “Professor” and
have a staff of people taking care of you. Passing
the peace on Sunday in a country where Peace means so
much more than we could ever imagine. Being touched
time and time again by people’s stories of pain and
survival. Being warmly welcomed, loved, and cared
for, by the Liberian people.

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